Craig LaBan heads down to South Philadelphia’s Cantina Los Caballitos for some decidedly gringo Mexican grub. But grub that goes beyond the standard American take on the burrito and delves into some “intriguing flavors.”

Cantina Los Caballitos, meanwhile, is 100% modern-day Philly mutt. Enter through the broad double-arch doors scooped from its bright- orange stucco facade, and you’ll land inside a moody gastro-pub for the tattooed gringo crowd. But it’s also layered with nice surprises, like a long list of serious high-end tequilas and an intriguing menu that goes way beyond the usual bar burritos to obscure delights such as mole rojo con pavo.

Two Bells – Very Good

Cantina Los Caballitos [Philadelphia Inquirer]