Despite a few missteps Trey Popp says Les Bons Temps is off to “an admirable start.”

The food is right out of Louisiana Creole country — think jambalaya and étouffée — but 23-year-old chef Brett Naylor has deftly carved out some room to inject a few ideas of his own. A fried catfish special made for a perfect example. A crisp, lightly battered fillet rode atop a superbly fluffy pillow of vegetable-studded couscous, and a quenching watermelon and pineapple salsa surrounded cool clumps of crabmeat in an inspired stab at cutting through the record-setting heat of early June.

I’ll Stand Bayou [City Paper]
Les Bons Temps [Official Site]