The Memphis Taproom goes under the LaBan microscope this week and passes with flying colors.

But the Memphis’ menu of updated bar food is impressively affordable and varied, topping out at $15 for a lamb-chop special, with prices that actually compete with the nearby Applebee’s. There’s a worthy nod to the neighborhood’s Polish tradition with the Port Richmond platter, a plate of awesomely smoked kielbasa from Czerw’s on Tilton Street, cheesy pierogis, kraut, and a potato pancake. And there’s also plenty to draw the area’s young new residents, with a focus on local ingredients drawn from urban farm pioneer Greensgrow, just down the street, and a vegan sous chef in the kitchen, Rob Notowitz, turning out homemade seitan barbecue sandwiches and smoked walnut gravy with biscuits for brunch.

Two Bells – Very Good

Memphis Taproom [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Memphis Taproom [Official Site]