Meaty. Juicy. Falling-from-the-bone tender. Who doesn’t swoon for a pile of ribs? Usually, though, the ribs in question are pork or beef. But, as it turns out, fish have pretty delicious ribs as well — at least if we’re talking pacu, a vegetarian relative of the piranha.

Kanella restaurant in Washington Square West has just added this unusual item to its menu. My server described them as “everything you want ribs to be,” and I’m astounded to report that he was right. The ribs themselves are (naturally) daintier, but the flavor is as big as any other ribs in town. Char-grilled on the outside and succulent within, the pacu ribs are paired with a creamy, herb-flecked yogurt sauce. You’ll need to eat it to believe it — luckily, the dish is transitioning from a special to the regular menu.

Photo from Samuels & Son Seafood Co.