friendly range and finally nailed the happy medium between innovation and accessibility – for which it earns a third bell. Rising-star chef John Taus (ex-Zahav, James, Tangerine, Bliss) has a knack for stunning updates to familiar comforts, whether it’s popcorn tossed in brown butter and fleur de sel, killer pierogies with chive cream and caviar, a croquette of crispy pig trotters and chanterelles over jalapeno grits, or a schmaltz-infused pastry round of chicken pot pie with a smear of creamy sage gravy on the side. Of course, it’s still deconstructed – but just enough to put this corner boîte (and its modern fireplace wall) back on my go-list of the city’s hottest flavors

After a few years of noodling with avant-garde small-plate preciousness, Snackbar has lowered prices into the neighborhood-

friendly range and finally nailed the happy medium between innovation and accessibility – for which it earns a third bell. Rising-star chef John Taus (ex-Zahav, James, Tangerine, Bliss) has a knack for stunning updates to familiar comforts, whether it’s popcorn tossed in brown butter and fleur de sel, killer pierogies with chive cream and caviar, a croquette of crispy pig trotters and chanterelles over jalapeno grits, or a schmaltz-infused pastry round of chicken pot pie with a smear of creamy sage gravy on the side. Of course, it’s still deconstructed – but just enough to put this corner boîte (and its modern fireplace wall) back on my go-list of the city’s hottest flavors.

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