BY JOY MANNING

Pizza is usually a dish on which the seasons have little effect. But at Osteria, executive chef Jeff Michaud usually features one or two creative pizzas whose toppings celebrate the seasons. If you were lucky enough to catch the amazing sweet corn pizzas of late summer, you know what I mean — and his fall-flavored pizzas are just as delightful. On a recent visit, I sampled the zucca (pictured), topped with sweet cubes of winter squash, mozzarella, golden raisins, crunchy pine nuts, and whiskers of chive. It sounds like an unusual combo, but the salty and sweet flavors are woven together seamlessly for a surprisingly balanced dish. Another delish autumnal offering? Le pizze napoletane mela e noci, topped with apples, black walnuts, taleggio, and parmigiano.

Over at Sovana Bistro in Kennett Square, pies can be topped with in-season ingredients like butternut squash or grilled radicchio and pear. And the bar menu at Savona in Gulph Mills has a new pie that might not have any right-now produce, but the combo feels like winter on dough: braised pork shoulder with rosemary, garlic, mozzarella, and an egg.