Posted by Foobooz on April 12th, 2010
Craig LaBan enjoys Sampan despite some sharp criticisms for chef Michael Schulson’s Asian fusion eatery.
For every gripe, though, there were more dishes that soared. A pair of Schulson standards – the Thai-glazed chicken wings and those silky edamame dumplings – are still keepers. The “satay” grill also turned out some memorable skewers – succulent tubes of miso-glazed king crab; amazingly tender lamb chops shined in yakitori; and some gingery rolls of butter-soft short rib, marinated in honey and gochujang, with a mince of kimchi on top, that were among the best updates to Korean flavors I’ve tasted.
Two Bells – Very Good
122 S 13th St, Philadelphia, PA