Little Black Book: Four Fantastic Foodie Day Trips
Posted by ken alan on May 20th, 2010
One part of my job I especially enjoy is when a city-dwelling client comes to me to help plan a day trip to places off the beaten path. With so much history — and such great dining — to be had in the Pennsylvania hinterlands, I’m never at a loss for suggestions about special area destinations. You can really have a wonderful getaway without having to hop on a plane or head down the Shore. To make it even easier for you, I’ve put together four of my favorite food and wine-centric day trips to get you out of Philly and into a state of relaxation.
A Superb Day in St. Peters Village
One of the region’s best road trips is found along Route 23, which rolls a macadam carpet from City Line Avenue all the way west to the heart of Lancaster.
Meander through Valley Forge National Park (watch out for those deer!). Pass the G Lodge Diner on the right — which appeared in M. Night Shayamalan’s The Happening. As you enter Phoenixville, you’ll cross Whitehorse Road, which is where Becca’s, resides (19 S. Whitehorse Rd.), a friendly and flavorful New American BYOB set in a charming 18th-century cottage. It’s a wonderful little lunch & dinner find, one that deserves to be discovered.
As you approach the western edge of Chester County (just before French Creek State Park), turn right onto St. Peter’s Road and into the newly restored fairy tale village of St. Peter’s, resting idyllically above the rushing French Creek
Step in to the warming aroma of St. Peter’s Bakery & Café (3441 St. Peter’s Rd.) to enjoy coffee and one of Executive Pastry Chef Melanie Melle’s scrumptious croissants, pastries, or cakes. The café is an off-Route 23 turn worth taking for light breakfast and fresh lunches, too.
Next door sits the stunning Inn at St. Peter’s (3471 St. Peter’s Rd.). Though the gorgeously renovated inn (pictured above) has gone through recent chef/management changes (the former contemporary French menu is now Italian), you can’t go wrong with having a cocktail and an appetizer or two on the outdoor deck while listening to the creek cascading across massive black granite boulders down below. The view is simply breathtaking.
Now back to Rt. 23. Turn right heading west. A mile up the road (look for the PA Wine Trail sign) you’ll be directed down a country lane and on to the J. Maki Winery (200 Grove Rd., Elverson). The bucolic setting may resemble Provence, though make no mistake: wine maker Janet Maki produces PA’s best Blanc de Blancs. Her award-winning sparkling wine alone makes this trip so well worth it.
You now have a choice: Continue west on Rt. 23 to discover its many culinary options, like the civilized dining found in Churchville at The Inn at Twin Linden; the mother of all smorgasbords at the voluminous Shady Maple (East Earl), or, simply venture into the city of Lancaster and experience a farm-to-table supper at John J. Jefferies, located in the Lancaster Arts Hotel (300 Harrisburg Ave.). Or, head back home – but consider stopping by Phoenixville for a nice stroll along Bridge Street. You’re sure to appreciate this old steel town’s fiery resurgence.
Riding Down Route 10 (with a side trip to England)
Route 10, which runs along the Chesco border with Lancaster County, is reminiscent of “back in the day” Route 30 Lancaster Pike, thanks to all those farm stands, Amish homesteads horse-drawn buggies, and signs for shoo-fly pie lining the old two-laner.
At its northern reaches there’s Honey Brook, a once countrified crossroads that’s quickly becoming an exurban residential hub. For all those transplants, the town offers Bistro on 10 (4690 Horseshoe Pike), a contemporary New American restaurant with tasty fare (the wood-fired pizzas are a standout) plus, a nice selection of wines, and 19 beers on draft.
Head south on Rt. 10 and soon you’ll see King’s Herb Nook (1060 Compass Rd.) on the left. Barefoot young ladies in simple bonnets will politely attend to you, as you get lost in over 200 varieties of culinary and medicinal herbs (all chemical-free), plus, loose leaf teas, organic grains, berries, seeds, plus, fresh vegetables and flowers (pictured).
Just follow the road as it rolls along. When you enter the community of Oxford, you’ll come to the Oxford Farm Market (193 Limestone Rd.) with its vast array of hearty to-go fare (fried chicken, great barbecue, homemade ice cream) and an assortment of plants and fresh veggies.
A sweet favorite of mine in Oxford is the outstanding Neuchatel Chocolatier (461 Limestone Rd.) with an authentically Swiss selection of pure indulgences created by fifth generation chocolatier Albert Lauber.
Now it’s time to spark up the GPS to plan your route back home. Type in “Whip Tavern, West Marlborough” (1383 N. Chatham Rd.) and soon enough, you’ll arrive at the area’s best pub, set amid heathery hillsides . The Whip is positively surrounded by hundreds of acres of hunt country scenery — you’d swear you were in the middle of the English countryside.
A pint of Guinness, maybe a crock of lamb stew and good friends — it doesn’t get any better.
The Other Bucks County (with a quick New Jersey wine run)
You know all about Doylestown and have done New Hope to death. Now it’s time to get lost in Bucks County’s hidden gems.
One of the county’s best kept secrets is the tiny hamlet of Carversville, nestled fifteen or so minutes northeast of Doylestown. At this quaint crossroads you’ll find the Carversville General Store (6208 Fleecydale Rd.). Inside, manager Ed McGinley will pour you a hot cup of La Colombe coffee to go along with one his locally-renowned breakfast sandwiches. Or, grab a nice picnic lunch at this quintessentially folksy back roads find. Ed’s chicken salad is awesome, too.
Dinner may be had across the road at the Carversville Inn, (6205 Fleecydale Rd.) a warren of romantic candlelit rooms await inside this cozy 19th-century charmer. Or catch a summer breeze while dining alfresco on the gas lamp-lit patio.
From there, ride two miles north on Fleecydale Road and you’ll soon be in scenic Lumberville, situated on the Delaware River. Consider drinks or dinner at the newly renovated Black Bass Hotel, (3774 River Rd.) or stop for a cocktail at the 1740 House Inn (3690 River Rd.), an adorable riverside gem.
Continue down River Road and cross the Delaware River and into tiny Stockton, NJ. Treat yourself to a visit at Phillip’s Fine Wine – (17 Bridge Street, Stockton). It’s what a real wine & spirits shops should be; you’ll find tasty bargains and dusty rarities within its bins.
Now take that bottle you’ve purchase and crack it open at an outdoor table at the excellent Hamilton’s Grill Room (8 Coryell St., Lambertville) — since, of course, it’s illegal to transport purchase out of state alcohol into Pennsylvania. Try Melissa’s beautiful borscht (pictured) or a steak or rotisserie chicken from one of their signature grills.
Berks County Has The Best Bars (Really!)
Situated a few miles above the workaday burg of Boyertown, you’d probably think Earlville, PA should be renamed “No-wheres-ville.” Guess again.
Hidden deep within the Berks County sticks are several unexpected finds, like the Tiki Bar (1150 Manatawny Rd.) – a tropical hideaway that’s half “Margaritaville” and half country roadhouse. Situated next to the “raging” Manatawny River, this rollicking oasis has a real surf shack vibe (*Clang!* The bartender’s bell signals yet another round of Hurricanes and a cheer goes up); Cook-your-own grills (beef and chicken, elk, alligator and swordfish), and, enough reggae and Red Stripe to curl your hair into dreadlocks.
There’s a second Tiki Bar at Spring Mountain, near Schwenksville and that one’s fine; though this is the real “raging” deal.
Also along the Manatawny you’ll discover Union Jack’s Inn (546 Manatawny Rd.), which offers friendly fun way deep in the Berks boonies. Banish thoughts of Deliverance though, especially when you learn this inn is dedicated to all things beer, with one of the best by-the-bottle selections in the state.
Route 422 isn’t far away. Head up it toward Reading, where you’ll find The Ugly Oyster (21 S. 5th St. — pictured), one of the town’s best bars, in the heart of the city. Or, enjoy a sophisticated European bite in the renovated factory space that is Judy’s Café (332 Cherry St.).
From there, take in Reading’s ever-expanding arts and culture scene. Goggleworks Center for the Arts (201 Washington St.) is at its creative core, an exhibition venue supporting creativity and education in the arts.
Ken Alan is Vice President of Concierge Services for BPG Properties, and he is a founding member of the Philadelphia Concierge Association. His motto is: Nothing is Impossible. Impossible simply takes a few more phone calls.
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June 1st, 2010 at 2:18 pm
Good Afternoon Ken,
This article jumped out at me because I love to find off-the-beaten-path restaurants, wineries, shops, etc… So, yesterday, my boyfriend & I followed your Route 23 Road Trip. St Peter’s Village was lovely, however, the J. Maki Winery was a nightmare. We’ve never experienced a more condescending proprietor in our lives. It was actually shocking. She was extremely rude and didn’t give us information about her vineyard other than to show us their awards and then very briefly answer any questions we had. Due to time constraints, we visited the winery before St. Peters Village, so after being verbally abused at J. Maki, we were able to sit and have a nice, full glass of wine at the Inn at St Peter’s and actually laugh at how incredibily miserable the proprietor at the vineyard was. Just thought you’d like to know – we’d never in a million years suggest someone go there and will never purchase even a glass of J. Maki wine at a restaurant, let alone a bottle at a liquor store!
June 3rd, 2010 at 8:47 am
Dear DKJM,
One of the concierge mottos I live by is “My recommendation is only as good as yours,” and with that said, I am grateful for your insightful feedback. I will certainly keep it in mind for the future.
I try and suggest places that offer “the total package,” meaning, an experience that not only looks attractive while offering something special, it should also provide a certain level of hospitality. With this stated, I’m sorry that you and your boyfriend felt so mis-treated at the J. Maki Winery. Though I have not heard this type of thing occurring before, and I’ve had good results from (client) groups I’ve sent there, still, no one deserves such an unwelcomed visit.
I appreciate you trying out that Route 23 trek, and especially, in taking a moment to provide commentary about it.
If you ever go again (skipping the winery of course), you can find much more up that Route, places I didn’t have room to mention in the article:
The Conventry Tea Room is a charmer (the best homemade salad dressings ever); I love the Green Hills Inn (Rt. 10 – a few miles up from Rt. 23 above Morgantown), and, also good to know: the Cafe next to the Inn at St. Peters is open one night a week (Friday) for a light dinner and ive entertainment – a cute place to byob-it, just not with anything from J. Maki Winery!
Thanks again, DKJM.
Safe travels!
Ka
June 13th, 2010 at 1:58 pm
We followed the Rt 23/St. Peters trip above, and completely agree with the comment above. J.Maki was so bad we posted a review online, pasted below.
Also, the smorgasborg was a glorified old country buffet with a grocery store next door.
“A blog on phillymag suggested we visit J. Maki. The winery itself is very beautiful, but when you walk into the tasting room, you will find yourself utterly disappointed. Here’s why:
1) To taste wine, you have to pay $20 or buy one bottle PER PERSON. Since the cheapest bottle is $30 with tax, this means it costs $40 at a minimum for a couple to visit the winery (we ended up paying $60 because it made no sense to walk out with nothing). This pricing is not clear at all, and makes it seem like the whole winery is running a scam.
2) The tasting consists of 6-7 varietals, but the winemaker is very stingy and pours what seems to be a teaspoon of wine into your glass per bottle. She claims it is all very precious and seemingly does not want to waste a drop. We have been tasting in Napa, Sonoma, etc. and have NEVER experienced anything like this. It is understandable to charge for tastings, but the way the winemaker does seems very dishonest. It is not clear that you have to pay or buy wine on a per person basis and we felt utterly duped after visiting. Even if the champagne was good (which it wasnt), it was very disheartening to be treated like this.
This review is also an open letter to Janet Maki to change the way you charge people into buying your wine, or at least be much clearer on your “rules.”"
July 5th, 2011 at 10:37 pm
Please do yourself a favor and google “J Maki Winery Reviews” online. I assure you they are all scathing. Here is mine: RUDE RUDE RUDE!!!! I COULD HAVE BEEN MUGGED AND FELT LESS LIKE I WAS STOLEN FROM!!!!! We were here several years ago, and had an “okay” experience with the woman. At the time, she was at least friendly to us, albeit pompous. This past weekend we were on our way back from Pittsburgh and figured we would stop in since it was on our way back home. The view is amazing, but as you pull in the first sign of rudeness is the sign that says “Private Property: Wine Buyers Only.” I got a bad vibe and we should’ve left then!!!! Now when we visited several years ago we remembered they had had a dog in the tasting room. We had our dog in the car with us. Considering we had just drove in from Pittsburgh and considering we had seen a dog IN the tasting room before, and considering we were about to spend money, we figured a little explanation would at least allow us to stand inside with our dog long enough to taste some overpriced wine and decide which one we were going to waste our money on. WRONG! I waited outside with the dog and sent my husband in to try to talk to the owner and see what we were allowed to do. The man was there this time, and he wouldn’t even look up at or acknowledge my husband when he walked in because his pompous self was too busy talking to other clients – so I waited out in the car with the dog since it was literally 90 degrees. I left my dog outside and went in for a second to use the restroom – again, I had just spent 5 hours in the car – and the owner literally glared at me the whole time. By the time he finally acknowledged my husband he said no we were absolutely not allowed in the winery with the dog. Don’t know if he’s just pompous or has social anxiety disorder. He then tells my husband that their dog is only allowed in their because he’s their “worker dog” and he chases all the deer away. Okaaaay – so a “worker dog” means it magically doesn’t shed in the tasting room??? WTH does that have to do with anything? And let me tell you – I sat outside and pet that dog when it slowly meandered/limped outside and then plopped down on the sidewalk and didn’t move . . . that dog is a sweetheart alright, but I can’t imagine that dog chasing deer away with any more efficiency than a snail! So they don’t tell you the prices of any of the wines that you are tasting, but they DO tell you you have to pay an outrageous $20 for the tasting if you don’t buy anything. Well their wines are so gross I’m SURE no one would buy their wines if they didn’t have this dumb rule! Hard to tell if you like their wines or not since they pour you less than one drop of wine to taste. So my husband “tastes” some wines, has to CALL ME on my cell phone as I’m standing outside because remember I’m not allowed back inside now, decides to buy 2 wines he’s barely tasted just to get the heck out of that awkward and uncomfortable situation, only to find out at check out that it’s 80-freaking-dollars. My husband paid it – you can be sure I was NOT thrilled with him when he came back to the 90 degree car and told me that! DO NOT GO HERE!!!! We get home that night and he gives me the white to try – I literally almost spit it out it was so gross. We spent the rest of the night drinking a $4.99 bottle of wine that was imported ACROSS THE PACIFIC OCEAN from Australia and was exponentially better than the wine from J. Maki.
August 5th, 2011 at 10:46 pm
J.Maki Winery was by far THE worst experience I ever had a “winery”. Rude, obnoxious. “you can taste if you buy a bottle. It’s so good I don’t have to give it away for free…” We tasted. The bottle was a white and had obviously gone bad… or his wine tastes like vinegar. Don’t waste your time. We lived nearby, so we only wasted our breath.
August 5th, 2011 at 10:52 pm
ps. I grew up in that area. Often riding my bike as a kid (now I am 39 and live in Manhattan, NYC) in the woods. My folks still live in the area and we often take trips when I am home, to vineyards. We have MANY great trips doing this. We thought the same would happen. Unfortunately, the person who planned the trip is NOT internet savvy and did not read reviews. We walked out after 2 snotty remarks from Fred Maki as he picked at his fingers, uninterested in our presence. BUT – Others!! — Definitely enjoy French Creek State Park, Hopewell Village and St. Peter’s Village. Fred Maki told us they had been there since 1991. Actually, they planted their grapes in 1991. Their own website says they named the vineyard “officially in 2007″.
August 5th, 2011 at 11:25 pm
Michele wrote:”I’m standing outside because remember I’m not allowed back inside now, decides to buy 2 wines he’s barely tasted just to get the heck out of that awkward and uncomfortable situation, only to find out at check out that it’s 80-freaking-dollars. My husband paid it – you can be sure I was NOT thrilled with him when he came back to the 90 degree car and told me that! DO NOT GO HERE!!!! We get home that night and he gives me the white to try – I literally almost spit it out it was so gross. We spent the rest of the night drinking a $4.99 bottle of wine that was imported ACROSS THE PACIFIC OCEAN from Australia and was exponentially better than the wine from J. Maki.”
4 of us in our party. 2 of us walked out. we left 2 others inside. I went outside because “I had heard enough”. Which is exactly what I said as I exited the place. I had already started to pull up Yelp on my phone when I saw the sign outside. I too was wary. The grounds are beautiful, but the place smelled… off. It was the first thing I noticed when I walked in.
After waiting 10 min in the parking lot, the rest of our party exited. One of them ALSO walked out with an $80, 2/btl purchase. Very clearly I stated, “You actually gave THESE PEOPLE $80? I wouldn’t let them PAY ME to park in my drive!!”