Craig LaBan visits the weekend-only Mr. Martino’s on East Passyunk and finds a restaurant reluctant for a moment in the foodie sun but one that does turn out simple pleasures.

The simple clarity of Maria’s best dishes rang like a soulful ping on my taste buds. The pasta and bean soup was an ode to pure peasant textures, the soft white beans against the chew of pasta rings, and a bean broth lit with the piney herbaceousness of panfried rosemary.

House-baked wedges of ricotta cheese are one of the standby starters, a cold appetizer that disappears no matter which garnish comes on top – string beans and juicy grape tomatoes tossed in herby vinaigrette, or chewy rounds of Claudio’s soppressatta and oil-cured olives.

Two Bells – Very Good

Mr. Martino’s [Philadelphia Inquirer]