As many as 400 diners a night come through the doors at Taqueria Moroleon in Avondale, PA. As Craig LaBan finds out, they’re coming for uncompromised Mexican food.

Let me pause for a moment to praise the chile relleno, which, unlike so many salsa-soggied renditions I’ve had in the past, revealed a spectrum of perfect textures, a delicately crisp egg-batter crust ringing the snappy layer of green pepper with the springy white core of cotija-jack cheese at its heart. It also delivered a jolt of green heat to remind I was biting into a poblano pepper.

I loved them so much, we ordered the double-size “deluxe” platter on my second visit, which brought an additional surprise: a cheese enchilada glazed in garlicky Guanajuato-style molé.

Two Bells – Very Good

Taquería Moroleón [Philadelphia Inquirer]