Posted by Foobooz on April 13th, 2011
It’s the anchovies, bone marrow and ground beef dish that defines the casual sophistication of Kennett for Brian Freedman.
It’s one of those why-didn’t-anyone-think-of-that-before combinations that, despite its initial impression of outlandishness, makes all the sense in the world. More importantly, it also fits neatly into the ethos espoused by Kennett chef Brian Ricci, managing partner Johnny Della Polla and owner Ashley Bohan of Kennett: The use of marrow—heaven’s butter, as a particularly eloquent waiter once called it years ago at Pif—shows not just a respect for those of us who wish it were even more prevalent around town, but also to the animal itself, taking advantage of more of the bounty a cow provides than by just settling for the all-beef patty. The addition of hyper-savory anchovy mayonnaise (charged up even more with shiro miso) slathered onto the bun accomplishes what the space shuttle’s booster rockets do: Ramps the power of an already serious system that even on its own is impressive.
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