Adam Erace finds plenty to like at Fathom Seafood House, the bar putting the fish back in Fishtown.

Mostly, the results are insanely tasty: a take on poutine with jumbo lump crab, squeaky mozzarella curds and spicy crab-stock gravy; the gooey fontina-and-lobster grilled cheese on shingles of Metropolitan sourdough; chicken-fried oysters whose zesty crusts preserve the silkiness of the bivalves inside. But eaten cumulatively, they can bust a gut, and upon departure, I didn’t so much step out into the gun-shy spring sunlight as waddle.

The Life Aquatic [City Paper]
Fathom Seafood House [Official Site]