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Revisiting Pub & Kitchen

Posted by Foobooz on August 3rd, 2011

Brian Freedman aimed to check out Wednesday barbecue dinner at Pub & Kitchen. But with that sold out for the evening he was reminded that P&K is one of the best bars to eat  and also a serious dining destination.

I had the chance to be reintroduced to one of the most honest, firing-on-all-cylinders spots around. Go there for a drink (the beer program is especially well-considered, though the wines and barrel-aged cocktails are given their due respect, too). Go there for a meal (the menu has expanded almost fourfold since opening). Special barbeque dinner or not, Pub & Kitchen is as good now as it’s ever been.

Pub & Kitchen Still Making a Good Impression [Philadelphia Weekly]

Pub & Kitchen’s menu is always changing. Here’s the version they rolled at yesterday complete with a new cucumber relish with jalapeno and maple syrup topping for the Churchill burger.

For tonight the barbecue will be:

Smoked Turkey leg and roasted Breast

Collard Greens

Grits Casserole

Can of Beer

$19

Pub & Kitchen [Official Site]

Pub & Kitchen
1946 Lombard St, Philadelphia, PA

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    • barryg

      My experiences at P&K have been very inconsistent with many sloppy and tepid (both literally and figuratively) dishes, and even when good, a questionable value for the money. Aloof staff and an obnoxious crowd subtracted from the experience too.

      Freedman’s opinion aside, is it worth going back? I remember he beer program sucking too, is it really better?

    • Snake

      What’s obnoxious about the crowd? I have some friends who live in the area who swear by the place, I suppose in weaker moments (theirs or yours), they could come off as obnoxious. It was crowded when I went in, but hardly obnoxious.

      Personally, I’m with you on the food and beer but I base this on only 1 trip.

    • http://noisenarcs.com David G

      I’ve always found the food very good but also very overrated. I do, to echo BarryG slightly, find the crowd a little Rittenhouse bland, but to each his own. It’s still a nice spot. What really shocks me is Freedman calling the beer program “well considered.” I haven’t been in five or six months, I can’t imagine that much has changed. While the beer selection was fine, to be called “well considered” in Philly is biting off more than P&K can chew.

    • Pat

      I was there ~2 months ago and found the beer list downright disappointing. The Churchill was everything I had hoped for, though.

    • Michael G

      Neither the crowd nor the service bothered me on my 2 visits here. However, the limited menu and so-so beer list didn’t do anything for me.

    • h

      We too found the crowd to be rather pretentious and obnoxious…food..meh…not worth the trek across town…

    • Dan

      Have you seen Brian Freedman’s headshot?! http://www.brianfreedmanphiladelphia.com/bio.php
      He rocks a pompadour and sports a goddamned pocket square christsakes! I think that explains all of his reviews…

    • Phillies

      Royal Tavern on the same level with amazing burger and all-around menu. Same kind of feel, but better service and friendlier staff

    • barryg

      @Dan, haha it really does.

    • JA

      Do people really base their opinions of a bar/restaurant on how exciting, as opposed to “rittenhouse bland,” or how modest and self-effacing, as opposed to “pretentious,” the crowd is?
      Did you really interact with the crowd so much that you can honestly pass judgement on them collectively or is this criticism of the crowd based on looks alone? It seems like it is and that’s a pretty stupid way to evaluate anyone.
      I’ve always thought the burgers and fries were great, as have been most of the other things I’ve eaten there on several occasions. It’s definitely not the place to go for an esoteric beer selection, at least by Philly’s standards, but not every bar is the POPE or SPTR or where-ever it is that’s “the best.”

    • h

      yes…and like i said, the food was “meh”…the crowd just made the experience that much more unbearable…
      and to top it off, it was hot in there…going out to dinner is usually composed of several apects…environment is one of them

      out waiter could not be bothered…i mean…get over yourself…you’re a waiter…in a bar…OFF rittenhouse

    • Abby

      I had a great brunch experience here with decent service and it wasn’t crowded. The food was also good- I tried a bite of my boyfriend’s Churchill burger and kept going back for more. It was possibly the best burger I’ve ever had, but $18…? It’s a burger, man. That’s a little much. I can see this not being my kind of place for dinner, as it seems like it’d be overpriced and has limited choices, but for brunch it was great!

    • Andrea

      Why is it that we have gotten to a point where we don’t pay for quality? Pub and Kitchen is a New York quality restaurant down to it’s burger (Pat LaFreida) and ambiance, yet in Philly we blast it on a comment board. In Philly if it’s using cheap meat and has pbr pounders, you are ready to give it accolades. Not everything has to be the pope or sptr. Don’t get me wrong, I love those places. But it’s nice to treat yourself to the best burger in the city (read Philly mag: people’s choice). On top of that they have a custom beer from sixpoint. Its like if you are progressive and don’t celebrate mediocrity, people are so eager to downplay it’s right to a good review.

      I love this place, it’s my bar after a long day at the office. The staff is amazing. They always know what I like to drink. But it’s a step above the rest in food and service. Maybe it’s not in the Philly DNA to respect a restaurant that’s trying to do more than pbr.

    • Charlie gilbert

      This place is a great neighborhood bar with an ever changing menu that is always satisfying, not to mention the kitchens open late and no matter what time I’ve eaten there it’s always quality.

    • rory

      i didn’t like the churchill burger when i had it. cooked well, but the bone marrow was too strong and overpowered. I liked the idea, but i’ll stick to the normal burger.

      i’ve also routinely had bad service there over the years. routinely.

    • barryg

      lol @Andrea.

    • barryg

      @JA, atmosphere is a huge part of dining, especially when the prices are in the P&K range.

    • lilpit

      Oooooh Andrea, you said the dreaded “ny” words – be prepared for people to blast you! :)

    • David G

      Oh lord Andrea. More than PBR? Do I have to remind you that P&K had two of their drafts devoted to commercial bs drafts until Laban of all people shamed them out of it: ” presence on such a small list of so many commercial beers, from Miller Lite to Corona, is a glaring shortcoming in a city obsessed with craft beer.” That said, still think the food’s good, and never mind stopping by. But it’s far from the be all end all that some make it out to be.

    • TJ

      While I agree with the knocks on Andrea’s comments regarding beer selection when it includes Miller Lite, Corona, etc., I also concur WITH Andrea’s comments regarding paying for quality in Philadelphia in general, not just at P & K. This town is obsessed with overindulgent-heaping portions equating to an experience being worth your $$ verses the actual quality of the food on your plate & the skill, creativity, time, & $$ it takes to prepare such things.

    • WTF

      Wait, what? Philly doesn’t want to pay for quality? Vetri is one of our longest running and most successful restaurants. Ditto Osteria. Bibou is critically lauded across the U.S., and Le Bec, a legend in the industry, keeps chugging along.

      Oh, have you eaten at Fish? We can keep going…how about Jose Garces restaurants? The last time I checked Starr’s crown jewels will also put a severe dent in the rent kitty. Oh, and there’s a little place called Lacroix right near P and K.

      All of these restaurants are busy, pricey, and highly regarded. Ask the owners of any of these outposts if the food-obsessed Philly public aren’t willing to pay for quality.

      Your ‘assessment’ that Philly doesn’t know what’s good is made by someone who spends every evening at the same bar.

      Also, I love Pub and Kitchen. I go for the Fish and Chips and the burger.

      P.S. Price doesn’t equal quality. Working examples: Serafina, Estia, The Fountain

    • Tex

      @Andrea, saying that P&K is a “New York quality restaurant” is meaningless. There are many great places in New York and many mediocre ones as well. If you meant to imply that P&K stacks up with those in the former category (e.g., Fedora, Minetta’s, etc.), then you are wrong. Others in Philadelphia do, but not P&K.

    • barryg

      @WTF, no shit, and also you can great values in this town. SPTR regularly puts out dishes on par with high-end restaurants for a fraction of the price of P&K–and uses quality LOCAL ingredients and supports our local breweries.

      There is still a set of Rittenhouse folk with the 1990s mentality that everything hip and trendy needs to be imported from NYC. The fact that P&K’s response to criticism of their beer list is a house brew from a Brooklyn brewery shows that they don’t get it.

      That doesn’t make it a bad restaurant but get over yourself Andrea.

    • JA

      Barry, atmosphere and “ew, the guy next to me looks like he’s dying to play a round of golf” are two different things. The atmosphere at Pub & Kitchen is that of a nice, bright, clean and well-appointed bar/restaurant. It get’s crowded, sure but that’s unavoidable in a good restaurant in a densely populated city.
      I think the truth is there’s a lot of classism in your, and others’, critiques. You really seem to be saying “I don’t like yuppies” and that’s fine, closed-minded to be sure, but your prerogative. It just bothers me that it’s so easy to dismiss a place on those grounds and be taken seriously. We’re not all in the same clique and yuppie MBAs are no more exclusionary or pretentious than “hipsters,” “hip hop” kids, whatever you call the current old city crowd or any other group of people you can think of. Everyone sticks with their own to some extent but it takes a special kind of person to be put-off by being in the presence of “others.” It’s not like you were ever forced to interact with the people you found obnoxious.
      I think your criticism is shallow. It’s a restaurant, not a cocktail party or a dance club. It should be judged primarily on the merits of the food and drink, not whether it’s a good place for the kinds of people you like to mingle.

    • David G

      The BS classicism card? Case dismissed.

    • David G

      Ugh: spelling. Class-ism. My own case dismissed.

    • rory

      people here already should have gathered I’m not a hipster. I’m put off by P & K’s atmosphere too. There are bars where you have to fit a vibe to be considered a part of the crowd and that’s a bad atmosphere, be it scenesters, hipsters, yuppies, hip hop, etc. A good restaurant is welcoming to people who want to eat good food and have a good time.

      I hate the bro bars, the hipster bars, and the yuppie bars. P+K’s definitely got a yuppie bar vibe. Bizarrely, I’ve had equal parts of problems with annoying yuppies around me and with hipster rudeness by some of the staff. It’s weird to combine both.

      Bottomline, if I feel uncomfortable in the crowd, it’s a bad atmosphere, imo. That’s true for both P&K, PYT, and…tries hard to think of a third bar starting with “P”…P.O.P.E.

      Actually, P.O.P.E.’s not been too bad…though that might have been because I had girl scout cookies with me, and everyone–hipster or yuppie–loves girl scout cookies.

    • TJ

      @Barryg
      Sixpoint Brewery, Barry…Sixpoint Brewery, which is a brewery IN Brooklyn….NOT Brooklyn Brewery. In case you’re wondering…no I do not work at P&K and haven’t been there in a long time, however I have a lot of respect for what the crew there works hard to do everyday as well as other restaurant owners/chefs/servers/bartenders/bussers/linecooks/dishwashers/hostesses in the industry. Barry & many others; you need to visit restaurants in addition to those that have jumped on the gastropub trend in the last 1/2 dozen years once in a while to really know what you’re talking about when it comes to a true quality/value ratio. Might sting to know that you’re paying a 400% markup on those PBR’s while enjoying your Gastropub burger that’s “sooo much cheaper than blah blah blah.” Would help to leave South Philly & Fishtown once in a while to. Maybe get off the fixie & take a shower to feel more comfortable amongst people that don’t look exactly like you. No disrespect to them, but why do you all mention SPTR & P.O.P.E. & not many others?? Not to mention naming the “usual suspects” in town. At least you mentioned FISH as a quality spot in town; kudos to WTF for at least mentioning them.

    • Buckethead

      “@Barryg
      Sixpoint Brewery, Barry…Sixpoint Brewery, which is a brewery IN Brooklyn….NOT Brooklyn Brewery.”

      I’m guessing that’s why Barryg said the beer is “from a Brooklyn brewery”..

    • Willow

      Good looking people do hang out at P&K. The staff is HOT you cannot argue that.

    • TJ

      @Buckethead,@Barryg

      I apologize for that error Barryg; I missed the “a” part in your sentence. Thank you for pointing it out Buckethead. By the way Buckethead…great guitar stuff in Limp Bizkit….whatever happened to you guys? ;)

      Last thing….despite people often making the lame comment of “just like NY or ‘in NY’, NY blah blah blah” there are an equal amount of great things that come from & that are in New York & Philadelphia. The whole Local Food & Drink ethos covers anything within 100 miles, which New York is; so nothing wrong with serving QUALITY beers, wines, cheese, & Foie Gras from New York in a Philadelphia establishment.

    • barryg

      TJ, sounds like you are the one that needs to branch out. You realize Standard Tap pioneered the gastropub concept in the US? SPTR and Royal Tavern were open for years before P&K. Did you just move here from New York or something?

    • barryg

      And those places don’t sell much, or any, PBR.

    • TJ

      Born in Cherry Hill, NJ Barry(7 miles away, local enough?) & have lived throughout the City of Philadelphia for over 15 years, well before any of the places mentioned opened. I have never lived in NY. The PBR comment was generally speaking regarding the quality to value discussion & not an attack on SPTR, Royal, or Standard who all do great things.

    • Meow

      Pub and Kitchen tries to be something it isn’t, and never will be. It tries to be a hipster fine dining like bar, but instead it attracts all the 30 something former frat boys who think they are so cool. and the food isn’t that good for the chef to act like his is serving at a fine dining establishment where nothing can be substituted or changed. and the service seems like a cult. i will never return. royal burger here i come.

    • brian

      First off: P&K needs a veggie burger (or some respectable vegetarian entree) like nobody’s bizness.

      They do come off as trying hard to be straight outta Brooklyn while somehow attracting a sometimes frighteningly yuppified crowd but if you get past it all and pop a squat the place is friendly, neighborhoody & after a Middleton Ale or two you kind of forget about all those times you shutter when you walk by. I think I’ll give the defenders the edge on this one… with an open mind, it’s a good spot to frequent (along with SPTR, POPE, et et).

    • PKLove

      @WTF
      It’s interesting that all the restaurants you mentioned have staff members that are regulars at P&K. I have chatted with people at the bar numerous late nights that just got done done their shift at Vetri, Osteria and Fish that swear by Pub and Kitchen. Not to mention that Pub has a Chef in the kitchen that came from Le Bec. Haters will always hate but I don’t think any of the restaurants you in your negative comparison would agree with you. Pub and Kitchen offers a consistently will thought out, made from scratch product and if that isn’t worth your money, they don’t want you in their seats anyway.

    • JayCee

      The only things these comments confirm are that (1) too many people pay more attention to others dining at P&K instead of their own dining companions, (2) some hipsters are not tolerant of those different from them, and (3) a lot of folks have terrible taste in food, as nobody in his right mind would truly believe the fare at POPE or SPTR is in the same league as P&K’s.