Craig LaBan heads to Lower Bucks County for flavors of the former Soviet Union. At Restaurant Absolute LaBan finds owner and chef Teimurazi Kikvidze turning out soulful Georgian fare.

For a taste of true Georgian-style flavors, the kebabs are a must. Kikvidze grills them over real charcoal, and the flavors resonate.

Rack of lamb brings three plump chops that are fantastically tender and savory despite only a brief marinade in cumin and paprika. The pork shish kebab is delicious, too, ringing with garlic, cumin, and cilantro, as are the moist chicken kebabs. The lulya kebab, a minced blend of chicken and lamb, gets shaped around the skewer’s flat blade like a heat-charred torpedo. Dip any of these meats in satsibili, a zesty homemade Georgian ketchup pepped up with cilantro, garlic, spicy peppers, and even Georgian spring water, and you may not go back to Heinz. Kikvidze’s fresh pan-fried Yukon potatoes and onions topped with crushed garlic and dill give French fries Georgian competition, too.

Two Bells – Very Good

Restaurant Absolute [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Photo by Michael Bryant | Philly.com