Posted by Foobooz on September 28th, 2011
Brian Freedman reviews Twisted Tail and has a word of advice to the kitchen, loosen up and break free.
Special house-cured pork belly arrived as a crestfallen study in tans and earth tones, and the flavor followed suit. Aside from its pleasant rib-rub perfume, this pig was about as exciting as a concert featuring Michael Bolton singing alongside Kenny G. Lamb shoulder, too, was a curiosity: Sliced into careful petals, it was well-cooked, sure, but the cardamom, coriander and fresh orange juice it was treated to should have belted out their respective tunes with more volume and clarity. Garlicky parsnip-potato gratin in the center provided literal and figurative ballast, as well as excitement, but not quite enough.
509 S. Second St., Philadelphia, PA
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