Adam Erace discovers Yang Yang Express in Upper Darby. Yang Yang might be on the sign but everyone calls it the Dumpling House and here’s why.

Long, skinny and twisted at the ends like joints, traditional pork-and-shrimp [dumplings] are prepared steamed or pan-fried; I tried (and enjoyed) both, but the amber caramelization of the latter added a nice, crunchy textural contrast ?to the soft, stretchy dough. Pinched at the top to seal in droplets of savory pork broth, Shanghai soup buns (not technically a dumpling, but in the same vein) jiggled in stacked perforated steel steamers lined with parchment paper, while the “Three Delicious” dumplings lived up to their name, justifying the braggadocio with a mix of tender orbs of shrimp, pork and leek inside thin skins. But the resounding favorite was the seafood dumplings, satchels stuffed with a mousse made of flounder, shrimp and scallops. They sparkled like Pop Rocks with the addition of fresh grated ginger.

Bundles of Joy [City Paper]