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Sbraga in the Real World
Posted by Foobooz on January 31st, 2012
Trey Popp finds that Kevin Sbraga can really shine at his eponymous restaurant on Broad Street.
Over-cute missteps and fast-corrected blunders aside, Sbraga more often showed a rare ability to make the smallest detail stand out. His apple cider miso-glazed black cod was good enough to order twice even without the bok choy chip that shattered on the tongue like a brittle autumn leaf. Yet my most memorable bite of that dish was a forkful of bacon-y adzucki beans bearing a single cilantro leaf. It’s hard to say why—hard even to know why—but it was just so right.
Two and a half stars – Good to Excellent
Sbraga: In the Spotlight [Philadelphia magazine]
Sbraga
440 S Broad St, Philadelphia, PA
Related Tags: Academy of Music, Avenue-of-the-Arts, Kevin Sbraga, Kimmel Center, New-American, prix-fixe, Reviewed, Sbraga, Trey Popp
January 31st, 2012 at 11:19 am
1) The black cod is absurdly good – I’ve gotten it twice too.
2) Your google map is showing Sbraga out near Reading, rather than center city.