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Sbraga in the Real World

Posted by Foobooz on January 31st, 2012

Trey Popp finds that Kevin Sbraga can really shine at his eponymous restaurant on Broad Street.

Over-cute missteps and fast-corrected blunders aside, Sbraga more often showed a rare ability to make the smallest detail stand out. His apple cider miso-glazed black cod was good enough to order twice even without the bok choy chip that shattered on the tongue like a brittle autumn leaf. Yet my most memorable bite of that dish was a forkful of bacon-y adzucki beans bearing a single cilantro leaf. It’s hard to say why—hard even to know why—but it was just so right.

Two and a half stars – Good to Excellent

Sbraga: In the Spotlight [Philadelphia magazine]

Sbraga
440 S Broad St, Philadelphia, PA

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    • Terry

      1) The black cod is absurdly good – I’ve gotten it twice too.

      2) Your google map is showing Sbraga out near Reading, rather than center city.