This weekend Craig LaBan reset his Bell system with three new Four Bell restaurants and by demoting two. Lacroix went from four to three bells and Georges Perrier’s Le Bec-Fin dropped all the way to two bells. LaBan scolds Perrier and his service team in a scathing column.

Dear Georges Perrier: What the Bec has happened?!

Changing tastes, a fumbling economy, rising competition, and an even more inflated ego (Perrier’s) have all played a role in the demise of what was the premier showpiece of Philadelphia dining for an incredible four decades.

Dear Georges Perrier: What the Bec has happened? [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Le Bec-Fin [Official Site]