Trey Popp really enjoys eating at Fairmount’s Lemon Hill. The drinking part needs some help though.

[Mitch] Prensky’s menu—executed with a deft hand by Joel Mazigian, who came out of Jose Garces’s stable—is pitch-perfect upscale pub grub. The chicken wings are a direct descendant of Supper’s much-praised legs and thighs, their preparation a three-day affair beginning with a long cure in pastrami-spiced brine and ending with a crackling plunge of the teeth into very tender flesh. There are dirty rice fritters with crawfish mayo that make for good beer food, and the South rises again in the form of fluffy cathead biscuits strewn with garlicky escargots, accompanied by a fried egg whose oozing yolk begs for sopping.

Pair any of those starters with a hefty entrée of head-on shrimp and Anson Mills grits, and you might start wondering if you can pay with Confederate dollars.

Two Stars – Good

Restaurant Review: Lemon Hill [Philadelphia magazine]
Lemon Hill [Official Site]