Posted by Foobooz on May 21st, 2012
Craig LaBan heaps the praise on the latest from Marcie Turney and Valerie Safran’s tapas bar, Jamonera.
Turney’s most stunning dishes, though, are dressed in squid-ink black. The calamari marinate in ink before getting crisped and are so ebony they look to have been fried in a volcano. But they’re delicate and tender, with a smoky wisp of pimenton Spanish paprika, a squirt of lemon, and garlic chips. With the mussels escabeche, whose vermouth-marinated mollusks are cleverly in a sardine can, squid ink completes the ingenious trompe l’oeil garnish of faux mussel shells molded and baked around actual shells with a potato-garlic tuile dough.
Three Bells – Excellent
Photo by Jason Varney | Fussing with Forks
105 S 13th Street, Philadelphia, PA