It’s a celebration of the pig at Marc Vetri’s Alla Spina. Trey Popp reviews the North Broad Street gastropub meets trattoria.

Philadelphia has long been a cultural conservator for classic Italian-American cuisine, with the emphasis put firmly on conservative. Alla Spina, though, plays looser, imagining that culinary fusion anew: how it looks in a time when bar counters are replacing white tablecloths, Fryolators are busier than pasta pots, and Mama’s red gravy has none of the cultural cachet of pig flesh served straight off the skull.

Two-and-a-half Stars (Good to Excellent)

Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Alla Spina Goes Hog-Wild in Fairmount [Philadelphia magazine]
Alla Spina [Official Site]