Trey Popp finds that the crowds are worth braving at Stateside where he finds George Sabatino and his staff are dolling out the pleasures.

[N]ow you bite into asparagus ribbons stained with pickle juice redolent of sunshine on a Florida orange. Next you’re spooning up a quail-egg-crowned tartare of top sirloin and filet tails strewn with hazelnuts. Then you feel droplets of house-made chili oil tingle your tongue amidst the refreshing springtime coolness of a lightly creamed pea soup pooled around crab lumps tinged with jalapeño, and any worry you had is replaced by a growing certainty that nothing can possibly go wrong, because the line cooks are absolutely crushing it.

Three Stars – Excellent

Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Stateside Cooks From the Heart [Philadelphia magazine]
Stateside [Official Site]