Craig LaBan Is Back at the Shore
Posted by Foobooz on July 9th, 2012
Last week Philadelphia Inquirer food critic Craig LaBan reviewed the restaurants of Revel Restorts in Atlantic City. Today he’s taking in the old in new along the rest of the Jersey Shore.
Among the highlights:
Magnolia Room, Cape May
“Thompson keeps repeating her delicious decades-old “mistake,” adding scoops of Breyers vanilla ice cream to the yeasty dough of hand-shaped dinner rolls that are so good, they’d make a grown man beg for more. “
Salt Ayre in Ventnor
“I found plenty to like with house-made Italian fennel sausage over rosemary-infused beans, an outstanding burger made from house-ground chuck, a delicate lemon sole with brown butter and capers, and a tasty pulled barbecue chicken with sherry creamed corn.”
Phillipe Chin, Somers Point
“Our early visit, though, was anything but grand, with off-kilter service and an expensive menu that was too broad, dated, and poorly cooked.”
Latz’s by the Bay, Somers Point
“There just wasn’t enough finesse in the cooking here to merit the upscale prices, whether it was an exceedingly bland red snapper with spaghetti squash, a sorely overcooked duck, or softshells crusted in so much corn meal that it was like eating hush puppies stuffed with crab.”
Smitty’s Clam Bar, Somers Point
“My perfect meal at Smitty’s clam bar is mostly self-evident: a platter of briny littlenecks on the half-shell, followed by a paper boat of steamers with a requested mug of clam juice on the side for dipping. Smitty’s best entrée, though, is surprisingly nouveau — a casserole of local yellowfin-tuna chunks marinated in gingery soy with wasabi (and baked “rare!” Popovic insists proudly). ”
Fisch Kitchen, Margate
“The new Fisch did a respectable job with lightly battered fish and chips, nicely grilled chunks of cod for the fish tacos, a fresh chowder (thinner than Smitty’s), Old Bay-dusted grilled shrimp, and a hearty seafood pot pie, which brought plentiful shellfish inside a tin of thick and bisque-rich gravy topped with a puff-pastry lid.”
Red Store in Cape May Point
“We had one of the summer’s best burgers here, oozing with English cheddar, beside a mound of fresh-cut, truffled fries dusted with herbs and Manchego. But it was the biscuit sandwiches that would most draw me back. In a fresh mood, I’d go for the crab melt layered impossibly high with sweet lump meat, creamy avocados, melted cheese, and a cabbage slaw drizzled with chile-spiced aioli.”
Chalfonte Hotel in Cape May
“I loved it, even if I’m not certain this is the kind of quirky, understated experience that all modern diners will appreciate. But there is also an unmistakable touch of soul in every bite that resonates with the history of the building, and its cooks’ knowing hands.”
Part 2 Craig LaBan’s Shore Dining Guide: Some old favorites deliver, while newer options disappoint [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Part 1: Dining at Revel [f8b8z]
Related Tags: Cape May, Craig LaBan, Jersey-Shore, Margate, Reviewed, Somers Point, Ventnor
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- Storm Damage from Hurricane Sandy at Jersey Shore Restaurants
- Down The Shore Everything’s Gonna Be All Right
- Flocking To Smitty’s
- Route 6 Is Summer Dining by the Ocean
- Family Restaurants At The Shore

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