Trey Popp checks in on Le Bec Fin alum Nick Elmi to see what he’s doing at Rittenhouse Tavern, the latest restaurant to live in the Art Alliance building on Rittenhouse Square.

[S]ummer found Elmi breathing real personality into his creations. Plancha-seared octopus arms sprawled across a black smear of blood sausage, fermented garlic and squid ink—a brilliantly funky foil for the half-moons of apricot glistening above it. In a cool, minty potage of pureed romaine, spinach, cucumber, peas and dill, he had hidden a globe of horseradish ice cream between citrus-poached shrimps. It didn’t burn so much as sparkle.

Two-and-a-half stars (Good to Excellent)

Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Fresh Surprises at Rittenhouse Tavern [Philadelphia Magazine]
Rittenhouse Tavern [Official Site]