It is a story of redemption at Rittenhouse Tavern, Nick Elmi impresses Inquirer critic Craig LaBan at every turn.

Most stunning was the “shrimp pavé,” a tender pink brick of Moroccan-spiced crustaceans bound with Activa “meat glue” into a geometrically perfect Franken-shrimp. Slow-cooked sous-vide, its delicate snap and faint exotic spice was ideal against the sweet juicy bursts of multicolored melon and crackly curls of pork rinds. Sous-vide vacuum cooking is the key to Elmi’s vegetarian entree, too, tenderizing a thick heart-slice of cauliflower “steak” before it’s butter-roasted over silky cauliflower-almond oil puree.

Three Bells – Excellent

A fine chef at last in his elegant element [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Rittenhouse Tavern [Official Site]