Craig LaBan has several excellent meals at the Nicolas Fanucci’s Le Bec Fin where the Inquirer critic finds chef Walter Abrams is creating contemporary and adventurous dishes. But the question remains, can Le Bec Fin be of the here-and-now?

I’m still savoring some of the most elegant plates from our tasting menus: the meaty chunk of grilled cobia set beside the fresh pop of baby black-eyed peas; the ethereal crimson stream of chilled borscht poured tableside over tiny Mexican gherkins, puffed wheat, and tart yogurt; the pure silk of foie gras terrine, shaped like a gold brick beside fresh figs and a little baba cake dipped in coffee; the rosy glow of lamb chops with Fairytale eggplant; the juicy tenderness of St.-Canut Farms suckling pig with tart gooseberries and earthy farro.

Three Bells – Excellent

Le Bec rising [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Le Bec Fin [Official Site]