Fishtown’s barbeque battleground is in full effect, and it seems as though Bubba’s Texas BBQ and Fette Sau are firing on all cylinders. Finding almost every meaty offering to be a success at Bubba’s Texas BBQ, Brian Freedman’s review shows promise for the little guy standing in Goliath’s shadow.

Pit master Robert “Bubba” Kolbasowski, a Texas native, is a stickler for details, and his 21-spice dry rub and homemade BBQ sauce are remarkable testaments to his focus on every aspect of what gets sent out of his kitchen. Fortunately, he uses his sauces judiciously, never over-applying them, which would be the BBQ-crime equivalent to certain other offenses that get prosecuted in the Hague. And in truth, his best meats really need no additional sauce beyond what he adds—just a pile of paper towels and beer, and they’re good to go.