Brazilian

Craig LaBan takes it all in at Fogo de Chão and despite maddeningly inconsistent meat dishes, the show is what makes it worth the visit.

And the unfailing charm of those gauchos, who slice their meats with tableside theatricality in an elegant room that few local restaurants can match, is ultimately what saves this newcomer from falling back into the one-bell fire.

Fogo de Chão (which means “Fire of the Ground” or “Campfire”) has a number of flaws – including a gas grill that gives its meats noticeably less flavor than traditional charcoal flames.

But the fun factor here is undeniable, and it is definitely worth a visit. I’d choose lunch if given a choice, as it is nearly half the price of dinner ($24.50 compared with $44.50) for the same selection of all-you-can eat meats and salad bar. Though with pounds of beef in your belly, you’d best plan a midday nap instead of going back to work.

Two Bells – Very Good

Fogo de Chão [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fogo de Chão [Official Site]