Comfort-Food

Brian Freedman decides to review Matt Levin’s Square Peg for brunch and he likes it.

[T]here are enough tweaks throughout the menu to keep things interesting. Grilled cheese is stuffed with mac and cheese: It’s a fatty, gluttonous, satisfyingly uncomplicated dish, with a successful interplay between the gooey and the crisp. An omelet is filled with a smoked goat cheese that somehow actually highlights the sweetness of the eggs themselves. The breakfast sandwich is a massive, fat torpedo, the eggs just drippy enough, the chihuahua cheese melting throughout, the homemade chorizo sizzling with a low-level spice that’s more implied than realized; porkiness is the focus here. Neither one is a life-changer, but they’re well-crafted components to a more than respectable brunch-time repertoire.

It’s with the cocktails that things get a bit more creative. I particularly liked the Bacon Mary, which bypasses vodka as a base for the bacon infusion and instead uses Laphroaig 10, whose own smokiness and inherent salinity are perfect compliments to the pig. The Bourbon Royale is a sort of amped-up riff on the bellini, with Combier providing the fruit and Maker’s Mark an added sense of smoke and honey to the champagne.

Bacon and Booze Leave Us Satisfied During Brunch at Square Peg [Philadelphia Weekly]
Square Peg [Official Site]