Eatalia

Adam Erace visited Eatalia and found it to be a charming neighborhood spot with some well executed classics. In the end, though, under-seasoning and under-achieving seemed to be the trend at the small, Italian BYOB in Fishtown.

The same can be said for the chicken pizzaiola, served in a brash crimson tomato sauce that — charged with briny black olives, woodsy oregano, red pepper and capers — managed to make the sanitized medallions of boneless, skinless chicken breasts appealing. I can’t even imagine how much better this dish would be with legs and thighs slow-braised in that vibrant sauce, or maybe with a pan-roasted breast on the bone tarped with salty, crispy skin. But for now, the crowd-pleasing white meat does the job.

Red-Gravy Train [City Paper]

Photo by Neal Santos