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French

Rick Nichols on Le Bec Fin’s Second Act

May 17th, 2013

“But in its latest edition, Le Bec no longer had the field to itself. The entire dining scene in the city had moved on, and up, and in many cases surpassed the gold standard Le Bec had set in a less competitive market decades ago. It’s a shame that neither Georges Perrier or his successor could fully absorb just how profoundly the menu, the dining-room stylistics, and the eating habits of 21st century Philadelphia had changed. You have to know when to hold ‘em and when to fold ‘em. The architects of Le Bec’s second act were clueless on that front. And sadly, instead of going out on top — where it deservedly reigned for decades — it suffered that most ignominious of endings: It threw a party and nobody came. It had worn out its welcome. The emperor, once so resplendent, no longer had clothes.”Rick Nichols, requiem for Le Bec Fin

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New Spring Menu at Bisou

Posted by Sam Bloch on May 15th, 2013

 

outdoor with people2-1

Bisou on Main Street in Manayunk has revamped its menu for the spring. The highlights of the new menu are an asparagus salad, a salt cod croquette, and escargot as appetizers, and an arctic char, pork cheeks, and a barramundi-warm calamari salad. These lighter, more refreshing dishes are sure to please your spring taste buds. Chef Clark Gilbert‘s French Bistro also just got some new outside furniture so that you can enjoy the beautiful spring weather while enjoying the spring food.

You can see Bisou’s new menu here.

Bisou [Official]

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Stephen Starr’s DC Plans from Le Diplomate to Fette Sau?

Posted by Foobooz on March 21st, 2013

LeDiplomateRenderingExterior-320-thumb-620xauto-51678

The Washingtonian has run some renderings of Stephen Starr’s Le Diplomate in Washington DC. If you’ve been to Parc, it will look familiar. In the post, Stephen Starr also drops that he’s considering bringing Buddakan or maybe even Fette Sau to Washington.

Get a Sneak Peek at Stephen Starr’s Le Diplomate (Pictures) [Washingtonian]

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Craig LaBan Re-Reviews Fond

Posted by Foobooz on March 18th, 2013

seared-foie-fond

Craig LaBan decides to revisit Lee Styer’s Fond since it has moved and added a liquor license. What he finds is that the marginally bigger restaurant still delivers in big ways.

We had only one real clunker course: a thin and one-dimensional foie gras soup. The special just lacked spark – especially beside his stunning appetizer of crisply seared foie, warm and creamy over cool carrots in gingery caramel with cardamom-spiced cream cheese sauce.

That indulgence was in perfect contrast to the elegance of tuna crudo tiled over piquillo peppers with a white miso aioli, or the beautifully browned swordfish over ivory vichyssoise sauce with tart bursts of grapefruit, bitter watercress, and the salty pop of paddlefish roe. Big, gorgeous sea scallops channeled a Spanish mood over saffron paella rice with smoky chorizo. And the chicken, roasted on the carcass before being deboned and finished with duck-fat-braised Savoy cabbage, was excellent.

Three Bells – Excellent

Fond [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Fond [Official Site]

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DC’s Medium Rare Opening on the 1600 Block of Sansom

Posted by Foobooz on February 7th, 2013

the-sansom

The Sansom, the high-end apartment project by Jim Pearlstein’s Pearl Properties is going to house Medium Rare, a steak frites restaurant operating in Washington DC. The under construction project takes up much of the north side of Sansom between 16th and 17th Streets (opposite Federal Donuts).

This is the second restaurant Pearlstein has landed this week. Marc Vetri announced that he’s opening Pizzeria Vetri in Pearl Property’s Granary project on Callowhill Street.

Medium Rare specializes in steak and frites, with the signature dish is available for just under $20. Co-founder Mark Bucher has Philadelphia roots, he was once an intern at WMMR. His grandfather, George Bucher was Civil Service Commissioner of the City and chairman of the City’s Board of Ethics, as well as the head of one of the city’s largest unions in the 60s and 70s.

has hired Philadelphia architect Richard Stokes to design the restaurant. Stokes has had a hand in several Stephen Starr Restaurants. Medium Rare is aiming for a fall opening.

Medium Rare [Official Site]

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Perrier Gets His Name Back, Chez Georges Is Now Le Bar at Le Bec Fin

Posted by Foobooz on January 24th, 2013

le-bar-le-bec-fin

This odd little nugget popped up on our Facebook page yesterday. Chez Georges, the downstairs bistro at Le Bec Fin, that was named for former owner Georges Perrier, was getting a name change.

Owner, Nicolas Fanucci told Michael Klein that the name change was made because Perrier’s people felt Chez George was too close other Perrier business interests.

Georges Perrier wants his name back [The Insider]

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Gemelli on Main Making Way for Bisou

Posted by Foobooz on January 7th, 2013

Bisou

Chef Clark Gilbert has closed his Gemelli on Main in Manayunk and is reconceptualizing the space into Bisou (a friendly kiss), a French bistro. According to Gemelli’s web site, the new spot promises “romance and adventure.”

Gilbert’s Gemelli on Main opened on Main Street, Manayunk back in June of 2011 after a run as just Gemelli, a BYOB in Narberth.

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Free Restaurant Equipment from Peter Woolsey

Posted by Foobooz on December 14th, 2012

Peter Woolsey of Bistrot La Minette is getting some new kitchen equipment and wants to make sure that his old equipment finds a better home than the scrapyard.

Read the rest of this entry »

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Coffee and Crepes and Shakes, Oh My!

Posted by Maegan Cadet on December 10th, 2012

Who says crepes are only for the French? No one really, but the question had to be asked because Philly is set to get one more creperie: Global Crepes and Local Shakes.  Set to open in Passyunk Square this January, owner Liza Iezzi is hoping to bring good food and memories, inspired by a shop her grandfather owned on 11th and Christian.

The cafe will serve coffee, crepes, homemade shakes, and an assortment of teas, ice creams, and wraps. If you want to get a sneak peek at Iezzi’s crepes, head over to Christmas Village at Love Park, where she’s serving crepes and baked waffles. Rumor has it Nutella is involved.

Global Crepes and Local Shakes [Official Site]

Photo via Passyunk Post

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Review: Chris Kearse Opens the BYO of the Year

Posted by Foobooz on December 5th, 2012

Trey Popp calls Will on Passyunk Avenue the “BYO of the year” and praises the cooking of Chris Kearse.

You could label Kearse’s approach French, or seasonal, or postmodern, and be right every time. But add it all up—a red-wine béarnaise of almost liqueur-like depth; the Mexican cucumbers, as small as caper berries, that Kearse scored cheaply from a farmer at Headhouse Square; the crunchified quinoa and puffed wild rice that joined those micro-cukes in a late-season tomato salad—and what you really have is ADHD cooking.

But that’s praise, not criticism. Dish after dish here offered a busy variety that bordered on impatience but never fell victim to it.

 

Three Stars – Excellent

Philadelphia Restaurant Review: Will [Philadelphia Magazine]
Will [Official Site]

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