Posted by Foobooz on April 29th, 2013
Craig LaBan heads to Gennaro’s Tomato Pie at Jackson and Carlisle Streets in South Philadelphia in search of an old-time pizza flavor.
I lift a slice of red pie, its heat-charred crust dusting my fingertips with tawny flour, lean in to take a bite, and find the taste is just as transporting. Crackle it snaps, the bottom layer of sweet mozzarella protecting the microscopic-thin crust. The spots of crushed tomatoes spooned on top between clouds of mozzarella have almost caramelized from quick exposure to the naked heat, bright and vivid, tangy sweet. I go back for another bite, then another, savoring the chewy, rustic, well-salted crust.
Two Bells – Very Good