Michael Solomonov’s Citron & Rose is now opening on Saturday nights. The bar will open 30 minutes after the sun sets and a cafe menu will be served one hour after the Sabbath has ended. Call the restaurant at (610) 664-4919 for the exact opening time.
Craig LaBan visits Aperto in Narberth. The BYO by John Wolferth, a veteran of Main Line fine dining includes enough hits that Lit achieves a two bell rating.
At his best, with the entrées of slow-braised meats, Wolferth conjures dishes I’d crave regularly if I lived closer – in particular his lamb sugo, a rustic bowl of tenderly stewed leg meat pulled to shreds in a brothy lamb gravy over pappardelle noodles with long-stemmed artichokes. The pappardelle reappeared on my second visit beneath a zesty crumble of guanciale-tinged wild boar Bolognese, amped even further with herbs and red wine. A plate of slow-cooked veal cheeks was so impossibly soft the almost feathery meat practically melted into the cauliflower puree at the tap of a fork.
Main Line Today’s checks out Clark Gilbert’s Gemelli in Narberth and has plenty of good things to say about the modest BYOB.
The eveningâ€™s real show-stopper was the appetizer special: rare seared scallops with a shaved fennel salad tossed with lemon juice and extra-virgin olive and lemon oils, and seasoned with shallots, chives and an orange-vanilla reduction. The lightly caramelized scallops were sliced horizontally and arranged atop the fennel, with a shallow pool of reduction nearby.
This Sunday the restaurant will be in Craig LaBan’s sights. How will it do?