Paraguayan

Adam Erace tries the Paraguayan eatery, Arbol Cafe in Northern Liberties and delivers this stomach awakening report.

For a heartier dinner, start with the earthy, full-flavored vegetable chowder and order the asado à la olla con kiveve. Traditionally part of a Paraguayan Sunday supper (and served at Arbol only on weekends), the dish consists of velvety polenta enriched with mozzarella and butternut squash and a boneless short rib braised four to eight hours into tender, pull-apart submission. Drizzled with sugarcane molasses, this sweet-and-savory dynamo is the best thing Arbol serves—and the best thing I’ve eaten in months. I can understand why customers call ahead to reserve an order.

Arbol Café [Philadelphia Weekly]