Trey Popp gives us two reviews in one as he visits the “weirdos” behind Pizza Brain and Little Baby’s Ice Cream.
I’ve got a severe hype allergy. But Brian Dwyer and Joseph Hunter’s partly Kickstarter-funded brainchild—which shares space, and a cockeyed ethos, with Little Baby’s Ice Cream—had me on an EpiPen high by the time I was chasing a rosemary-scented mushroom/fontina/goat cheese pizza with dense scoops of chipotle chocolate and Earl Grey sriracha ice cream.
How did it happen? Well for one thing, nothing neutralizes a rambunctious preschooler like knickknack-crammed plexiglass display boxes. For another, this is inventive and frequently terrific pizza.
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Craig LaBan reviews Pizza Brain on on Frankford Avenue in Fishtown. Fresh ingredients and balanced flavors furnish the Guinness World Recorded pizza museum/shop with two bells.
But while there are certainly more exquisite and inventive pizzas in town, Dwyer and partners Ryan Anderson, Mike Carter, and chef Joe Hunter have done a surprisingly respectable job of spinning some worthy variations on the classic crispy American genre. No puffy, personal Neapolitan pies here. This dough, created by sous chef Austin Adams, is touched by the DNA of sourdough starter and delivers personality.
And while the toppings don’t always quite match the zaniness of the pizzas’ names (most culled from Dwyer’s days as a young data-entry Dilbert), they highlight good ingredients and a fine sense of balance.
Brian Dwyer and his team at Pizza Brain finally makes their public debut today and if you believe Facebook Events pages, 1,130+ people are going to be attending. If that actually happens we’re pretty sure they’ll run out of pizza before you can say Federal Donuts. But even if you don’t get pizza, it is sure to be one heck of a block party on Frankford Avenue.