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South-American

943 Equals Two Bells

Posted by Foobooz on July 18th, 2011

Craig LaBan really enjoys dining at 943, the Argentinian/Italian BYOB by Pascual “Pat” Cancelliere situated on 9th Street in the Italian Market.

beef is 943′s sweet spot – simply grilled over coals that smoke with wood trimmings from Green Meadow farm, then plated next to green beans and fingerlings sauteed with molten duck fat. True to style, this kitchen properly opts for cuts that showcase flavor over tenderness – my favorite being the skirt, followed by the just-chewy-enough (but smallish) short rib, and then the more expensive N.Y. strip (nicknamed “bife de chorizo” because of its shape, but slightly misleading because it doesn’t come with sausage). While they initially seemed plain, a basting of chimichurri (with a swig of malbec) was all the tang they needed to come to life: straight-to-the-point beefy bistro savor.

Two Bells – Very Good

943 [Philadelphia Inquirer]
943 [Official Site]

Photo by Akira Suwa | Philly.com

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9th Street Is Trying To be a Dining Destination

Posted by Foobooz on May 2nd, 2011

Trey Popp provides three restaurant reviews in one in the May issue of Philadelphia magazine. Popp visits the venerable Italian Market for sitdown dinners at Monsu, 943 and Paloma.

943 – Two Stars
Monsu – Two-and-a-half stars
Paloma – Two Stars

Exile on 9th Street [Philadelphia Magazine]

Photo by Jason Varney

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The Promise of Empanadas

Posted by Foobooz on July 7th, 2010

Few things pique our interest like the promise of good empanadas. Rick Nichols teases us with his short column on empanadas from Cafe Clave in West Philadelphia.

Mom’s empanadas [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Cafe Clave [Official Site]

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Argentinian Flavors at Hoof + Fin

Posted by Foobooz on June 22nd, 2010

hoof_fin_seafood

Craig LaBan takes Argentinian BYOB Hoof + Fin to task on the noise level but doesn’t have many complaints about the food.

I much preferred Barroz’s takes on the more Euro-centric-style of slow-braising short ribs – cooked down with malbec wine into a hearty ragu ladled over wide ribbons of pappardelle pasta, or served like a meaty brick tenderized from eight hours of slow-steeping in citrusy sangria, alongside thick-cut rails of super-crisp potatoes topped with a garlicky Provençal mince of parsley.

A little European touch isn’t out of place, especially considering the strong Italian influence that stamps Argentine cuisine. It’s reflected on this menu, too, in some impressive house-made pastas, like the melt-away nubs of ricotta gnocchi that simply dissolve in a truffled gloss of brown butter, sage and capers.

Two Bells – Very Good

Hoof + Fin [Philadelphia Inquirer]
Hoof + Fin [Facebook]

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“Gayle Who?”

Posted by Foobooz on May 19th, 2010

hoof_fin_Rissotto11

Adam Erace wonders aloud whether Hoof + Fin is the best new restaurant in Philadelphia.

There’s no guessing at Hoof + Fin. Empanadas are empanadas, flaky and filled with sweet corn and Manchego cheese. Ceviche is ceviche, fluke or tuna bejeweled with summery watermelon. And beef is most certainly beef. In Argentina, cow is king, and Barroz, a native of Córdoba, knows how to cook one inside (grilled sweetbreads with mint!) and out. His grilled, chimichurri-marinated skirt steak is an intensely beefy, smoky experience, 10 ounces of rare grass-fed ribbons resonating with garlic and herbs and tradition.

The Argentine cowboy comes to Society Hill [Philadelphia Weekly]
Hoof + Fin [Facebook]

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Asado Wednesdays at Hoof + Fin

Posted by Foobooz on April 27th, 2010

hoof_fin_live_music

Every Wednesday Hoof + Fin is offering an Argentinian Asado dinner for $39. This Wednesday the dinner of grilled meats will be accompanied by the live tango music of Carlos Pavan.

Hoof + Fin [Facebook]

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Spring Menu at Hoof + Fin

Posted by Foobooz on April 14th, 2010

hoof_fin_interior

Hoof + Fin has freshened up its South American menu for Spring. Among the additions are a crab salad and sangria braised short rib.

Hoof + Fin has also opened its backyard patio for dining. Full menu after the jump.

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Avenida, a Comfy Hit

Posted by Foobooz on March 25th, 2010

avenida_octopus

Trey Popp visits the very comfortable Avenida in Mt. Airy and finds home-style cooking worth leaving home for.

How good can home-style Latin food be if Jose Garces has been rocking your palate with intricate small-plate creations for the last couple years?

The answer is very good. Avenida is about affordable meals served on Ikea plates, not lamb lollipops in shot glasses, but the Alvarezes do it with uncommon focus and finesse. Don’t skimp on appetizers. Slow-cooked octopus arms blistered with tequila poke through a cooling bed of watercress. Chorizo, poblano rajas and al dente black beans achieve a perfect three-way balance under a just-cheesy-enough queso fundido. Already you’re having trouble sharing the very sharable portions.

House Rules [City Paper]
Avenida [Official Site]

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Food for Thought: Should You Follow Your Favorite Restaurant on Twitter?

Posted by Ashley Primis on August 4th, 2009

Increasingly, local restaurant owners are using social networking sites like Twitter and Facebook to entice customers with last-minute happy-hour deals and dinner specials — and keep track of what’s being said about their businesses. And while online networking is no doubt gaining in popularity, the people using it are still a very select group — and the return isn’t always obvious. Is it really worth the effort — either for restaurateurs or customers?

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Picture If You Will…

Posted by Foobooz on July 15th, 2009

Sazon Arepa

Adam Erace asks the reader to picture a meal at the Venezuelan Sazon on the ragged corner of 10th and Spring Garden. A meal that shines with pride.

Just picture the soft Champion sweatpants hanging in your closet at home, because that’s what you should’ve worn to Sazon. Picture the portions, generous for such little coin, and how full you are by the time the gargantuan asado negro arrives. But picture the fork, and you lifting it anyway, slicing through the tender steak’s black jacket of caramelized garlic and unrefined brown cane sugar, and savoring.

Spanish Slice [Philadelphia Weekly]

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